dactyl-manuform-5-7/guide/README.org

* Preparation and Cost
  Get all the parts / raw material
  - For the 3D printing there are two options:
    1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
       which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
       printer you have available.
    2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
       http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
  - Decide on the switches
    - If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
      buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
      well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
      Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
    - I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
      https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
  - Decide on the key caps
    - On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
      http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
      try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
      massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
      these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
    - I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
      http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
      short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
      left-over.
  - The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
    - It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
      really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
    - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
  - The main controller (right half)
    - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
  - The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
    - TTRS cable and jacks
      - Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
      - Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
    - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
      - Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND

  What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
  | item                              | cost |
  |-----------------------------------+------|
  | filament                          |   70 |
  | switch-tester                     |   30 |
  | key-caps                          |   70 |
  | teensy 2.0                        |   30 |
  | switches                          |   60 |
  | usb cable                         |   10 |
  | IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable |   30 |
  |-----------------------------------+------|
  | overall cost                      |  300 |
  #+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)

  My choices / advantages:
  - Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
  - 76 Diodes for free
  - Soldering wire and copper for free
  - All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
  - Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout

  Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
  is a good rough estimate.

  After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section.

* Wiring
  It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm
  not going into advice on 3D printing here.

  1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
  2) Put the keycaps on the switches
     - Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short,
       that's why it doesnt look symmetrical

  [[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]]

  Now going further on in the guide there are two options
  1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
     business, everything looks rather clean and you dont have to worry about your cables being too
     thick such that the casing doesnt close. However if you don't have the means to print out such
     PCBs there is the second option, hand-wiring everything by hand.
     - The guide for this is very rough indeed and it doesnt include the firmware used. Wiring and
       firmware play extremely close together, wiring before knowing your firmware is like buying a
       shoe without measuring your feet before. For this option information about the exact
       firmware is not published, this in addition to the fact that the pictures in this rough
       guide are incomplete makes this option extremely beginner-unfriendly. Going in blind-sided
       like this may lead to one of these things:
       1. reprogramming huge parts of the firmware to match your wiring which comes with a ton of
          debugging
       2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
     - [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
  2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
     this was great pain and pleasure.
     - Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
       at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
       "ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
       - TODO: Make a successfull pull-request, such that it is available in the official
         ergodox-firmware
     - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to
       option one there is a whole lot more of information.
     - [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]

** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
   [[workbench.jpg]]

   For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know that's not great (it's
   better than nothing!)

*** Making the PCB
    Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer method to etch the Pyralux sheets as
    you would a usual PCB

    #+BEGIN_QUOTE
    NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out,
    voilà Toner based copies!
    #+END_QUOTE

    [[http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/][Here'sa handy toner transfer guide ...]]

    Print these PCB designs out...

    Left hand:

    [[left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]]

    Right hand:

    [[right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]]

    When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into pieces... See the images
    below.

*** Applying the PCB to the electronical parts
    The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand:

    [[madness.jpg]]

    Solder the MCP like so:

    [[left-hand-mcp-1.jpg]]
    [[left-hand-mcp-2.jpg]]

    Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so:

    [[teensy-1.jpg]]

    Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small diagram and notes)

    [[teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg]]

    Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so:

    [[right-hand-pcb-1.jpg]]

    Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the Pyralux:

    [[right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg]]

    Here the left hand:

    [[hotglue-left-hand.jpg]]

    That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!)
** Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide
*** Step 1: Creating the rows
    Using the copper wire you solder each row together, notice how the thumb-part gets its own
    row. If you take a close look you can see how I did do a messy job soldering, I had to redo
    some of the parts because they weren't soldered properly. Do this for both sides. Which ones of
    the pins you chose for the row doesnt matter, but for it to look clean you should decide for
    either one of them

    [[file:wiring_create_rows.jpg]]

    [[file:wiring-create-rows-both-sides.jpg]]

    You might want to go ahead and test each one of the 70 switches with a multimeter.

    [[file:wiring-create-rows-testing.jpg]]

*** Step 2: Create the columns
    The next step is to create the columns by soldering the diodes.

    Notice which way these diodes are directed here. First of all, they are all wired with the
    black part towards the switch, it is important that you follow that pattern for all of the
    switches. The end where that color-mark is denotes the direction of the diode. The way these
    diodes are directed, we have to have a firmware that "drives the rows", which means the
    electricity can go from the column through the pressed switch through the row, but not the
    other way around (TODO: insert diagram here to explain this further).

    Luckily in our firmware "ergodox-firmware" we have the option that adapts to that. However if
    you want to try and use the "tmk_keyboard" firmware which seems to be also interesting you
    want to wire the diodes the other way. This way the "columns are driving". As a side note, for
    some reason the tmk_keyboard firmware things of rows as columns and the other way around, so
    if you look through the source code it will also see "drive rows", even though that means
    "driving columns".

    The tmk_keyboard firmware could also be used for this kind of wiring, but it would have to be
    rewritten, maybe in a beautiful way, such that it can also "drive rows". However I didnt go
    ahead and perfomed that rewriting, so I had to stick with the "ergodox-firmware". In retrospect
    I'd wish I had wired the diodes the other way around.

    The first picture doesnt show how the 6 thumb-keys are actually individually connected to the 6
    main columns.

    [[file:wiring-create-columns-left.jpg]]

    This second picture shows how the 6 thumb-keys are actually connected to the 6 main columns.

    [[file:wiring-create-columns-right.jpg]]

    TODO: Insert diagram of how the thumb-keys are connected to the main clumns.

*** Put the Teensy and the MCP in place
    This next step is to wire the Teensy 2.0 and the MCP 23018 in place.
    Everything necessary for that really is the following circuit diagram

    [[file:circuit-diagram.png]]

    [[file:rows-and-columns-connected-to-chips.jpg]]

    Things to note here:
    - The columns for the MCP go from 0 to 6, the columns for the Teensy go from 7 to D (counting
      in hexadecimal) which makes great sence, since the MCP is left to the Teensy and we read from
      left to right.
    - When debugging this and using the ergodox-firmware, both sides have to be wired completely
      and actually connected, dont expect the keyboard to work before that. The reason being is how
      the ergodox-firmware stops completely if either the Teensy or the MCP weren't initiated
      properly.
    - In the circuit-diagram the columns on the left side (MCP side) actually go from GPA5 to INTA
      (TODO: Update the circuit diagram and get rid of this point)
    - The LEDs are handy for debugging, definately go ahead and connect those. When the keyboard
      starts successfully two of the LEDs light up shortly.
    - From the Teensy over to the MCP go exactly 4 connections. The blue, the red and the two green
      ones. This is done using the TTRS jacks and cable (TODO: Add picture here how the jacks are
      wired)
    - Yes, the connection from B4 to VCC doesnt seem to make any sense, but the B4 port actually
      gets used directly in the ergodox-firmware, so just connect those connections that make no
      sense on first sight and either dont question it or find out why this is necessary by going
      through the firmware in great detail.