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makeup changes, replaced the 2 new pictures
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guide/README.org
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guide/README.org
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* Preparation and Cost
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Get all the parts / raw material
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- For the 3D printing there are two options:
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1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
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which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
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printer you have available.
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2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
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http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
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- Decide on the switches
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- If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
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buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
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well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
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Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
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- I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
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https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
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- Decide on the key caps
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- On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
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http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
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try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
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massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
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these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
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- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
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http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
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short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
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left-over.
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- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
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- It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
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really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
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- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
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- The main controller (right half)
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- A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
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- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
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- TTRS cable and jacks
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- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
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- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
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- MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
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- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
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Get all the parts / raw material
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- For the 3D printing there are two options:
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1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
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which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
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printer you have available.
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2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
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http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
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- Decide on the switches
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- If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
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buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
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well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
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Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
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- I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
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https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
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- Decide on the key caps
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- On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
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http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
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try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
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massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
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these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
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- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
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http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
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short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
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left-over.
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- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
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- It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
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really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
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- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
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- The main controller (right half)
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- A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
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- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
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- TTRS cable and jacks
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- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
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- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
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- MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
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- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
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What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
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| item | cost |
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|-----------------------------------+------|
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| filament | 70 |
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| switch-tester | 30 |
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| key-caps | 70 |
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| teensy 2.0 | 30 |
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| switches | 60 |
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| usb cable | 10 |
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| IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
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|-----------------------------------+------|
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| overall cost | 300 |
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#+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
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What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
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| item | cost |
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|-----------------------------------+------|
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| filament | 70 |
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| switch-tester | 30 |
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| key-caps | 70 |
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| teensy 2.0 | 30 |
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| switches | 60 |
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| usb cable | 10 |
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| IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
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|-----------------------------------+------|
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| overall cost | 300 |
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#+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
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My choices / advantages:
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- Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
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- 76 Diodes for free
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- Soldering wire and copper for free
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- All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
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- Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
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My choices / advantages:
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- Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
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- 76 Diodes for free
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- Soldering wire and copper for free
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- All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
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- Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
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Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
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is a good rough estimate.
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Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
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is a good rough estimate.
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After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section
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After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section.
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* Wiring
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It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm
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not going into advice on 3D printing here.
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1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
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2) Put the keycaps on the switches
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- Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short,
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that's why it doesnt look symmetrical
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[[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]]
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[[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg
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[[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]]
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Now going further on in the guide there are two options
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1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
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@ -86,12 +89,12 @@
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2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
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- [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
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2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
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this was great joy and pleasure.
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this was great pain and pleasure.
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- Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
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at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
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"ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
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- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the
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first guide there is a whole lot more of information.
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- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to
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option one there is a whole lot more of information.
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- [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]
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** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
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guide/application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg
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