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@ -1,74 +1,77 @@
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* Preparation and Cost
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Get all the parts / raw material
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- For the 3D printing there are two options:
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1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
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which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
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printer you have available.
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2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
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http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
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- Decide on the switches
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- If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
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buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
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well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
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Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
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- I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
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https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
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- Decide on the key caps
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- On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
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http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
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try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
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massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
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|
these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
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|
|
|
- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
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http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
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short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
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left-over.
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- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
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- It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
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really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
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- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
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- The main controller (right half)
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- A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
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- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
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- TTRS cable and jacks
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- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
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- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
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- MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
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- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
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What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
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| item | cost |
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|-----------------------------------+------|
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| filament | 70 |
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| switch-tester | 30 |
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| key-caps | 70 |
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| teensy 2.0 | 30 |
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| switches | 60 |
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| usb cable | 10 |
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| IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
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|-----------------------------------+------|
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| overall cost | 300 |
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#+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
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My choices / advantages:
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- Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
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- 76 Diodes for free
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- Soldering wire and copper for free
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- All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
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- Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
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Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
|
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|
|
is a good rough estimate.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section
|
|
|
|
|
Get all the parts / raw material
|
|
|
|
|
- For the 3D printing there are two options:
|
|
|
|
|
1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
|
|
|
|
|
which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
|
|
|
|
|
printer you have available.
|
|
|
|
|
2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
|
|
|
|
|
http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
|
|
|
|
|
- Decide on the switches
|
|
|
|
|
- If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
|
|
|
|
|
buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
|
|
|
|
|
well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
|
|
|
|
|
Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
|
|
|
|
|
- I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
|
|
|
|
|
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
|
|
|
|
|
- Decide on the key caps
|
|
|
|
|
- On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
|
|
|
|
|
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
|
|
|
|
|
try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
|
|
|
|
|
massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
|
|
|
|
|
these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
|
|
|
|
|
- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
|
|
|
|
|
http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
|
|
|
|
|
short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
|
|
|
|
|
left-over.
|
|
|
|
|
- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
|
|
|
|
|
- It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
|
|
|
|
|
really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
|
|
|
|
|
- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
|
|
|
|
|
- The main controller (right half)
|
|
|
|
|
- A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
|
|
|
|
|
- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
|
|
|
|
|
- TTRS cable and jacks
|
|
|
|
|
- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
|
|
|
|
|
- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
|
|
|
|
|
- MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
|
|
|
|
|
- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
|
|
|
|
|
| item | cost |
|
|
|
|
|
|-----------------------------------+------|
|
|
|
|
|
| filament | 70 |
|
|
|
|
|
| switch-tester | 30 |
|
|
|
|
|
| key-caps | 70 |
|
|
|
|
|
| teensy 2.0 | 30 |
|
|
|
|
|
| switches | 60 |
|
|
|
|
|
| usb cable | 10 |
|
|
|
|
|
| IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
|
|
|
|
|
|-----------------------------------+------|
|
|
|
|
|
| overall cost | 300 |
|
|
|
|
|
#+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My choices / advantages:
|
|
|
|
|
- Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
|
|
|
|
|
- 76 Diodes for free
|
|
|
|
|
- Soldering wire and copper for free
|
|
|
|
|
- All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
|
|
|
|
|
- Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
|
|
|
|
|
is a good rough estimate.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
* Wiring
|
|
|
|
|
It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm
|
|
|
|
|
not going into advice on 3D printing here.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
|
|
|
|
|
2) Put the keycaps on the switches
|
|
|
|
|
- Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short,
|
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|
|
|
that's why it doesnt look symmetrical
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
[[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]]
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|
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|
|
[[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg
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|
|
|
|
[[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]]
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Now going further on in the guide there are two options
|
|
|
|
|
1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
|
|
|
|
|
@ -86,12 +89,12 @@
|
|
|
|
|
2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
|
|
|
|
|
- [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
|
|
|
|
|
2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
|
|
|
|
|
this was great joy and pleasure.
|
|
|
|
|
this was great pain and pleasure.
|
|
|
|
|
- Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
|
|
|
|
|
at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
|
|
|
|
|
"ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
|
|
|
|
|
- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the
|
|
|
|
|
first guide there is a whole lot more of information.
|
|
|
|
|
- Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to
|
|
|
|
|
option one there is a whole lot more of information.
|
|
|
|
|
- [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
|
|
|
|
|
|
BubblesToTheLimit
8 years ago
